The Greek Island Way Of Life
The 2023 summer that was in Greece, where I found the kind of joy that poets write about.
I had never stood atop a ferry deck, seen a blue as those azure Aegean waters and known just what the Greek islands had in store for me.
Four years ago, on April 2, 2019, I wrote a verse:
At noon, a balmy summer breeze brushes my cheek
At dusk, street lamps drizzle gold onto an ivory street
I close my eyes and let myself drift away into the Aegean Sea
Drift away, into the world of Santorini.
Four years ago I wrote a verse, not knowing a thing about Santorini. I wrote this because I was seeing a canvas of white and blue everywhere around me. Finally, in June 2023, Greece summoned me and I set sail towards the summer of a lifetime.
MYKONOS
The 3-hour long Minoan Lines cruiser-style ferry from Athens to Mykonos was nothing short of first class — luxurious comfortable seats, a snack bar on-board, a breezy deck and the bluest Mediterranean waters around. As we docked at the island, hundreds of excited tourists with big smiles descended the ferry’s ramp like refugees, all set for their European summer. The island sun kissed my skin and around me, I saw the bright summer rays shining on azure waters. We arrived at our whitewashed villa, ‘Jenny’s Summer House’ overlooking the sea and in that moment, I knew — I had stepped into my canvas of white and blue.
While the island enjoys its notorious reputation of day-long and night-long parties I saw a whole other side to ‘Mykonosh’, as the locals call it. A typical day started no earlier than 12 PM — afternoons were spent wandering the white cobbled streets of Little Venice town, filled with local artisanal stores and seaside eateries overlooking the historic windmills. And by seaside, I mean literally edging the sea — picture gushes of small waves slapping against the legs of your chair at your waterside table, a true sea-to-plate dining experience. Balmy afternoons turned into electrifying evenings, when the “party island” would come alive. The streets of Little Venice by evening were a sight to behold — the same seaside eateries turned into bustling bars with the music so loud, they lured you from miles away — the siren call of the twentieth century.
On my last night-turned-into-morning at 6 AM, I stood alone on the balcony of our white villa, ecstatic and looking back at the last 4 days in Mykonos; I had gotten a taste of the Greek island life — Brunch, Beach, Bars and repeat — and I knew just then, this was going to be one beautiful blue, delightful journey ahead.
PAROS
It was a bright Monday afternoon when we arrived at Paros, the lesser known gem. We knew this was a more somber destination as compared to our previous party island stop, with pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and medieval fishing villages. Here, we started our days earlier and got in a delicious breakfast at cutesy cafes around followed by a stroll along the streets of Parikia, the capital port town, where street shopping and cute cafes galore; it was here on a street in Parikia where I had the best gelato of my life — quintessential Greek-style, thick, velvety and creamy praline-flavoured. It was also here where I had one of the best burgers ever, at a small street-side cafe called Burger Street, tucked away in a lane so narrow it’s easily missable. What I’d give to go back just for these two delights!
On our first evening, we drove to the glittering town of Naoussa and got there just in time for the most surreal dusk — it cast a warm golden glow across bobbing boats lined along the harbour, afloat tranquil waters. We watched from a seaside cafe as Ouzo (the national drink of Greece) was poured into our glasses and people around us exclaimed ‘Yamas!’ (Cheers!). And as the evening progressed, we heard a familiar siren call on the streets, and realised we were wrong — it was party island all over again in this part of Paros!
What you probably don’t know about Paros is that there’s something for everyone. Whether it’s a relaxed beach holiday or shopping, dining and nightlife, competitive windsurfing(!!) or a journey in search of medieval culture, this island comes as a pleasant surprise to those who have only heard of its more popular cousins, and definitely worth a visit.
“Say goodbye to the island Páros,” wrote Archilochus, a Greek poet from Paros. “Farewell to its figs and the seafaring life.”
SANTORINI
I don’t know why my heart stood quite so still; it was only a sunset upon a hill.
Santorini and sunsets — a love affair. All four evenings no matter where we were, we made it a point to find the perfect sunset spot. While there are popular spots listed on the internet, I would personally recommend grabbing a seat at a seaside/rooftop restaurant to avoid the huge crowds at the “popular” spots. But all said and done, these sunsets are truly what dreams are made of.
Santorini is everything I expected it to be and more — a labyrinth of my favourite white and blue canvas, a vista of whitewashed villages on a cliff over glistening blue waters. The two touristy towns, Fira and Oia house everything from local boutiques to high-end shopping, and small cafes to luxury seaside dining. One afternoon in Oia, I discovered Atlantis Books, a vintage cave-house bookstore hidden in a narrow alleyway that only called out to the true lovers of literature. Craig, the store owner — a passionate, eccentric man with round glasses that magnified his eyes, looked like a wizard himself and indulged each one of his visitors in a literary tale. I had never thought I would find first editions of Fitzgerald and the Harry Potter books in ancient Greek, in an alleyway tucked away in Santorini.
While Santorini by day is about chasing sunsets and blue domes, Santorini by night casts a spell that lingers on a long, long time. The whitewashed villages are set aglow from the street lamps and the domes illuminate like celestial beacons, creating a stark contrast against the night sky and the dark sea. The twinkling lights of Fira and Oia create a breathtaking panorama over the sea, a setting for the movies, the books and artists alike. There’s nothing quite like ending your day strolling along the moonlit paths and savouring local cuisine at a cliffside restaurant, and doing it all over again the next day.
On my last night in Santorini, my heart was full. The verse I had written four years ago, a figment of my imagination and pictures on the internet, had become a reality. I now have my very own, very real memories of a white and blue canvas.
Time becomes merely irrelevant and slips away unnoticed, as the summer sun descends into the seas at 9 pm on the Greek islands — a day seems 40 hours long, with so much to do and the desire to do it over and over again. For me, this summer had not only been a voyage through scenic landscapes, but a discovery of inner joy and the taste of a new way of life. As I write this, memories woven with the hues of azure seas, golden sunsets and the warmth of Greek hospitality linger on like the gentle sea breeze, whispering tales of adventure and the magic of the Greek islands.
